There is no such thing as a silly question, particularly when it comes to the subject of flooring and DIY! Hopefully below you will find some answers to the more common questions we encounter on a day to day basis. If you are unsure of anything at all to do with door bars, flooring trims or accessories, please give us a call on +44 (0)1673 844424 or email us at email@example.com. We’ll try our best to help!
The answer depends slightly upon you individual set of circumstances. Generally, if using a flooring trim which comes complete with a base section, it is advisable to screw fix the base section to the substrate floor and then tap the top profile in with a rubber mallet. Exceptions to the rule are if you have underfloor heating or cabling running under the floor. On these occasions it is advisable to use a heat tolerant, high grab adhesive to stick the base section down.
For door bars which are one piece, glue fixing or screwing through the surface into the floor are the best ways to produce a suitable finish and secure fix.
Please see the fitting guides at the bottom of the individual profile pages for specific details relating to each range.
By far the simplest way to get the best profiles for your floor is to give us a call. We have hundreds and hundreds of simple and complex colours and finishes to provide the perfect match for your flooring. Often with the manufacturer codes and details we can look up a match for the floor on our database to point you in the correct direction. Failing that, if you send us a sample of the flooring we can apply our bespoke staining service to get the perfect match.
As a general rule, when fitting a “wood type” floor, an expansion gap should be left all the way around the room or area. The edge of the flooring should not come into contact with any walls, door casings, posts, supports or fire surrounds. Where flooring is being continued from one room to another a physical gap should be left to allow movement of the floor between the two areas. A profile should be used wherever an expansion gap is left or the fitted floor finishes against another.
Natural wood products, engineered and even some laminates need room to ‘breathe’. Expansion and contraction is dependant on the relative humidity of the area or adjoining areas in which it is fitted. It is always best to consult the flooring manufacturer for expansion gaps as products can differ. All Parallel profiles are designed to allow for an expansion gap up to approximately 15mm.
The shape of the profile required is dependant on the height difference between the two floors where the gap is. The only accurate way to establish the height difference is to measure from the thickness of each flooring type from the substrate floor. Once these thicknesses are known, subtract the smaller number from the larger. The difference in floor heights will then determine the size of the drop required on the profile.
The finished floor thickness (or height) is calculated by simply adding together all the various layers that will complete the finished floor. These often include underlay, adhesive, packers and of course the thickness of the floor boards being used. Once the height is known, selecting the correct base becomes a simple task of making a note as to which of the three base sizes the measurement taken falls in to (see the relevant product pages for more information).
Parallel profiles are manufactured using the highest grade raw materials, whether it be Aluminium, MDF or solid hardwoods. This provides the foundation for the hardest wearing profiles available in the UK market. The profiles life cycle is dependant upon the traffic moving through the given area. Naturally the more dense the traffic volume, the quicker the profile will wear. However to put the wear in perspective, it is very rare that a Parallel profile will need replacing before the flooring.
Wood flooring can appear confusing at the outset, however the reality is far simpler. Wood flooring types generally fall in to three distinct categories;
Solid – Solid (Hard)wood flooring is exactly as the name suggests; solid planks of wood planed and shaped in to flooring boards. Generally the most costly of the wood flooring types but it provides a very solid feel underfoot, particularly when glued straight to a concrete floor. With it being solid throughout, it is possible to sand a refinish these types of floors, which can provide a longer lifespan to the product.
Engineered – Engineered wood flooring is made by combining a solid veneer (normally approximately 6mm thick) top layer and a plywood or softwood core. This combination creates a product that is less expensive to produce, generally more stable in fluctuating atmospheric conditions and looks like a solid wood floor once laid. The only downside being, it has a shorter lifespan than solid hardwood flooring.
Laminate – Laminated flooring is constructed from a paper foil top layer (effectively a photo of a wood pattern) applied to an MDF core. The relative lack of expense in the manufacturing process means most Laminates are cheaper than both engineered and solid wood flooring. Whilst more cost effective, they do wear much quicker than real wood alternatives. However, they are extremely quick to lay, easy to change and tend to echo the more modern trends.